Blumat sensors are fully adjustable and can be set to maintain a wide range of soil moisture levels. This gives growers precise control over their watering strategy, but it's important to understand how the adjustment range relates to plant health and system performance.

• Maximum dryness: The driest possible setting is around 300 mbar, which corresponds to permanent wilting point—a condition in which most plants can no longer recover. Settings this dry are not recommended in typical growing scenarios.

• Maximum wetness: The wettest possible setting is below 20 mbar, which exceeds field capacity—the point at which soil cannot hold more water without it beginning to drain. In this range, you'll likely see water running out the bottom of your container, and the system may cycle frequently. While this range is not ideal for most potted plants or beds, it may be appropriate for capillary mats or certain shallow nursery trays.

• Ideal range: Most growers will want to dial in their sensors between 50 and 100 mbar, depending on crop type, growth stage, and soil structure.

> For vegetative growth, a setting between 40–60 mbar helps maintain a consistently moist root zone for fast growth and nutrient uptake.

> For flowering stages, or for crops that benefit from slightly drier conditions, settings in the 60–100 mbar range can help steer water uptake and encourage stronger root development.Avoid extreme ranges:Below 30 mbar: You're watering beyond field capacity, which can lead to root rot, nutrient leaching, and overactive system cycling.Above 150 mbar: Soils can begin to turn hydrophobic, especially in peat-heavy or dry organic blends, meaning they resist absorbing water and can no longer wick moisture laterally. This results in uneven watering and poor system performance.

• Avoid extreme ranges:

> Below 30 mbar: You're watering beyond field capacity, which can lead to root rot, nutrient leaching, and overactive system cycling.

> Above 150 mbar: Soils can begin to turn hydrophobic, especially in peat-heavy or dry organic blends, meaning they resist absorbing water and can no longer wick moisture laterally. This results in uneven watering and poor system performance.

Blumat TROPF sensors come in two lengths:

5-inch Sensor:
• Best for small pots or when monitoring surface moisture
• Responds quickly with short, frequent watering cycles

9-inch Sensor:
• Ideal for raised beds and large containers
• Can be installed at any depth between 5" and 9"
• Delivers broader moisture swings, known as a wider “dead band”

Understanding the Dead Band:

Sensor depth directly impacts how the system behaves:

• The deeper the sensor, the more the soil must dry before it triggers a watering event
• This leads to larger drybacks and more penetrating watering cycles
• Shallower sensors cycle more frequently with tighter moisture control

Use deeper sensors when longer watering intervals or deeper hydration is preferred. Use shallower sensors for fast, responsive cycling in upper soil zones or mulch layers.

STANDARD SENSORS

Standard sensors are set using the hanging drip method, either before installation (cap dialing) or after installation (in-soil adjustment). In both methods, you always begin by finding the hanging drip—the point where water just begins to drip from the 3mm line.

Two ways to calibrate:

1. Cap Dialing (Before Installation):

• Connect the top of the sensor to a water supply
• Find the hanging drip point on the dial
• From there, tighten clockwise ~¼ turn to close the sensor and achieve a drier set point

> ¼ turn = 6/16" ≈ 60 mbar
> Each 1/16" = ~10 mbar

• Once the top is set, soak the ceramic cone underwater
• Assemble the sensor while submerged, then install into evenly pre-moistened soil

2. Cap Dialing (Before Installation):

• Install and soak the sensor as normal
• Find the hanging drip point while the sensor is in the container
• Adjust based on current soil moisture:

> Just right: Leave at hanging drip
> Too dry: Loosen slightly (counterclockwise)
> Too wet: Tighten slightly (clockwise)

• Use 1/16" = ~10 mbar as a guide

> Example: If your soil is at 30 mbar and you want 70, tighten ~4/16" (¼")

PRESET SENSORS

Preset sensors are color-coded and pre-adjusted for common pressure ranges:

• Gold Mark → Calibrated for gravity systems (low pressure)
• Silver Mark → Calibrated for pressurized systems (higher pressure)

To Set:

• Preset sensors come with a protective cap already installed over the adjustment knob
• Do not remove the cap — it protects the setting from being bumped or changed accidentally
• Use the adjustment key (included with your system) to reach through the hole in the top of the cap
• Align the sensor to the correct color mark (gols for gravity, silver for pressure)
• Insert the sensor into pre-moistened soil
• Let the sensor run for 24–48 hours to stabilize and begin watering
• After the sensor is active, you can fine-tune the setting using the same principles as standard sensors:

> 1/16" looser (counterclockwise) = ~10 mbar wetter
> 1/16" tighter (clockwise) = ~10 mbar drier

Preset sensors offer a fast, accurate starting point—but like all Blumats, they can be dialed in with precision using real-time feedback from your plants and soil.

The trunk line begins at your water source—usually just downstream of a pressure reducer or reservoir—and runs toward your zones or rows.

• Made from ½-inch polyethylene tubing
• Uses Permalock fittings and valves for secure, reusable connections
• Can also be constructed using Schedule 40 or 80 PVC with reducer bushings to convert to 8mm tubing

Why Trunk Lines Matter:

Every time you reduce to 8mm tubing, you limit flow to about 1 gallon per minute (GPM). This is fine for a single zone—but when paired with a higher-capacity pressure reducer (like the 7 GPM system-wide version), trunk lines let you divide that total output across multiple 8mm zones, getting the most from your water source.

Flow Matching Guide:

• ½-Bar Reducer (~0.75 GPM): 1 zone
• Full-Bar Reducer (~1 GPM): 1 zone
• System-Wide Reducer (~7 GPM): Up to 7 zones (when properly split using a trunk line)

Trunk lines allow you to distribute water evenly without overloading a single line, which helps maintain stable pressure and ensures all zones respond properly.

Once water is split off the trunk line, it flows through 8mm tubing to reach your sensors and emitters.

Two types of 8mm tubing are available:
• Black Poly Tubing – Slightly rigid, great for straight lines or clean layouts
• Super Flex Tubing – Soft and kink-resistant, ideal for weaving through containers or beds

Both tubing types are fully compatible with Blumat fittings. Use Super Flex where routing is tight or tricky, and Black Poly when long, clean lines are preferred.

A well-balanced system minimizes pressure variation across zones. Key design tips include:
• Keep trunk lines straight and elevated when possible
• Use tee fittings and reducers to cleanly split water to each zone
• Reduce at the point of need—not back at the reservoir—to keep high flow where it's needed
• Avoid long single-direction 8mm runs
• Purge air during startup and after any reservoir emptying

Important:
When water flow is disrupted—especially in gravity systems—air can become trapped in the tubing. Even a small air bubble in a low-pressure system (1–5 PSI) can stop flow entirely. This is why air purge valves are critical.

Install ball valves or flush valves at the far end of every trunk line or loop. If your reservoir runs dry and air enters the system:
• Refill the reservoir
• Open the valves to let trapped air escape
• Once water runs steadily, close the valves and resume normal operation

Gravity-fed systems require special design considerations because of their low operating pressure. Here are two common, effective layouts:

A. Looping from the Reservoir (2 Bulkhead Method)

This setup increases redundancy and total flow rate from a bucket or raised tank:
• Install two bulkhead fittings: one for supply, one for return
• Run tubing out of the first bulkhead, through your growing area, and back to the second bulkhead
• Water flows in both directions around the loop
• If one line clogs, the other side still feeds the system
• Having two outlets also increases flow, allowing more sensors on gravity compared to a single line

This setup is ideal for compact container gardens or smaller raised bed systems.

B. Trunk Line with Multiple U-Loops

For larger gardens or grow rooms using gravity:
• Use a ¾-inch bulkhead and connect a ½-inch trunk line to the bottom of your reservoir
• Run the trunk line along the head of each row
• At each row, install a reducing tee to split off into 8mm tubing
• From each tee, run Super Flex tubing in a loop: out to the end of the row and back to the next tee (forming a U-shape)
• Repeat this looped pattern for each row

This approach allows you to:
• Keep all 8mm runs short for better pressure
• Build redundancy and balanced pressure into each row
• Expand the number of zones even in low-pressure environments

Always install flush valves at the end of each trunk loop to purge air and clear debris.

Gravity systems are the most common and accessible option. Pressure is created simply by raising a water reservoir above the plants.
  • Every 2 feet 4 inches of elevation = ~1 PSI
  • Minimum functional height = 3 feet (for ~1.25 PSI)
  • This method is ideal for basic Blumat drippers or BluSoak 2.0 drip tape.

BluSoak 2.0, which is designed for low-pressure use, still performs best when pressure is at least 1.5 PSI—so ideally, your reservoir should be 3 feet 6 inches or higher when using drip tape.Even with elevated tanks as high as 12 feet, you'll remain within the safe “low-pressure” range of Blumat operation.

When connecting a Blumat system to a pressurized source—such as a hose bib, municipal line, or pump—you must use a pressure reducer to avoid damaging the system. Blumat-compatible pressure reducers include:

•  Blumat ½-Bar Pressure Reducer (~7 PSI) 8mm outlet
  - Ideal for small systems with 1–10 sensors
  - Max flow rate: ~0.75 GPM
  - Best for short runs and small gardens

•  Blumat Full-Bar Pressure Reducer (~15 PSI) 8mm outlet
  - Suitable for mid-size systems with up to 20 sensors
  - Max flow rate: ~1 GPM
  - Allows use of higher-pressure distribution like BluSoak 3.0 or drip rings

• Sustainable Village System-Wide Pressure Reducer (Adjustable: 5–15 PSI)
  - Designed for large, zoned systems with up to 300 sensors
  - Max flow rate: ~7 GPM
  - Pairs with ½" trunk lines to maintain even pressure across multiple zones
  - (Insert link to product)

Blumat sensors require a constant pressure supply—something traditional pumps don’t provide on their own. To meet this need, Sustainable Village has developed pump systems specifically designed for Blumat performance.

A Blumat-compatible pump system must include:
•  A pump (low flow rate, typically 1–3 GPM)
•  A pressure switch to turn the pump on/off based on demand
•  A pressure accumulator tank to provide the pump with an off cycle and store water under pressure allowing for much higher flow rates than the pump's ratting.
•  A pressure reducer to maintain steady low pressure at the system level

This configuration allows the pump to cycle at higher pressures while the pressure reducer ensures the Blumat system sees only a stable, safe working pressure.

Pump Kit Options:

1. Mini Pump Kit – Suitable for systems using up to 50 gallons per day

2. Large Pump Kit – Suitable for systems using up to 300 gallons per day

3. Custom Pump Conversions – Larger pumps like Leader or DAB models can be made Blumat-compatible by incorporating the proper accumulator, pressure switch, and reducer setup

Regardless of your pressure source, water quality matters. To keep your system clean and functioning:

• Use clean water free of large particulates and debris
• Keep reservoirs cool and out of direct light to avoid algae and biofilm growth
• Clean your reservoirs periodically using safe cleaners like hydrogen peroxide, hypochlorous acid, or diluted bleach
• Optional filtration: Inline filters or UV sterilizers can be added to reduce buildup or microbial contamination

1. Sensor is used alone, with water dripping directly from the 3mm tubing.
2. Works well for small pots up to 5 gallons.
3. Add a stake or elbow to secure the drip point and ensure consistent placement.
4. Drip point should be:
  • 3–4 inches from the sensor
  • Toward the center of the pot (not at the edge)

• Original Blumat distribution system.
• Connected via 3mm tubing.
• Two types:
   - T Dripper – inlet/outlet to pass water through
   - End Dripper – terminates the line
• Use 2 to 5 drippers per sensor.
• Layout:
   - First dripper: 3" from sensor
   - Loop around container
   - Last dripper: 3-4" from sensor on opposite side
• Dripper Adjustment Note:
   - Each dripper includes a small screw cap that can be unscrewed for cleaning.
   - This screw is not an adjustment for flow—loosening it will not increase output, and tightening it will not restrict flow.
   - Always screw it fully closed after cleaning.
   - This is a common misconception, so be sure not to treat the screw as a valve.

• Preassembled rings with drip points.
• 5" Ring – 4 drip points → for 2–7 gallon pots
• 10" Ring – 8 drip points → for 10–20 gallon pots
• Sensor placement:
   - 5" ring: place just outside the ring
   - 10" ring: can be inside or outside, using the gap in the ring if needed
   - Always within 3" of the ring

BLUSOAK OVERIEW

BluSoak is a low-flow, pressure-sensitive drip tape for containers and beds.There are three types:

BluSoak 1.0 (original)

• Tyvek material with a plastic rib down the center (prevents kinks)
• Great for spirals and loops
• Requires at least 2 PSI
• Not ideal for gravity-fed systems

BluSoak 2.0

• Tyvek material with no plastic spine
• Must be folded over at the end to seal
• Works down to 1.5 PSI – perfect for gravity systems
• Provides uniform watering at ultra-low pressure

BluSoak 3.0

• Emitter-style black drip tape with emitters every 6"
• Requires 12–15 PSI
• Excellent for pressurized systems
• Installation tip:
   - Cut only at the emitter (the visible slit)
   - Cutting between emitters will disable that emitter
   - Use pliers/channel locks to tighten fittings beyond hand-tight

LAYOUT SHAPES FOR BLUSOAK

Loops (BluSoak 1.0 / 2.0 / 3.0):

• Use a BluSoak T to loop around large containers (30–100 gallons)
• Place sensor 3–4" inside the tape path

Spirals (BluSoak 1.0 / 2.0):

• Start in the center of the container and spiral outward
• Place sensor near the center of spiral, ideally between two coils

Manifold (BluSoak 2.0 / 3.0):

• Ideal for raised beds or straight rows
• Common layout: four parallel lines across a 4x10 bed
• Sensor should be:
   - At least 12 inches into the bed
   - Between two lines, skewed 3–4 inches toward one for responsiveness

INSTALLATION TIP (VERY IMPORTANT):

• The most common issue with BluSoak setups is leaking at the fittings.
• To ensure proper function, tighten all BluSoak fittings with pliers or channel locks.
• After hand-tightening, use pliers to add an extra quarter turn. This seals the connection and prevents leaks or pressure loss.
• This small step makes a big difference in overall system performance and reliability.

• Bottom-watering mats designed for small containers (1-gal pots)
• Uses internal BluSoak manifold to distribute water through the mat
• Two sensor options:
   - 5" sensor in a pilot pot on the mat
   - Surface Blumat sensor (bell-shaped ceramic) directly on the mat
   - Setup tips:
     > Must be perfectly level (within ½" over 10 ft → between lines on 4-ft level)
     > Pots must have permeable bottoms or open drainage holes>> Holes must be at least ⅜” in diameter
• Target moisture: 20–30 mbar
• Moisture check:
   - If there's standing water under a pot, tighten the sensor
   - If it’s dry under a pot, loosen the sensor
  - Digital moisture meters are ideal for checking mat performance
• Sensor setting: very close to hanging drip, often just slightly looser

The Digital Moisture Meter is the most precise tensiometer available for growers.
Reads soil moisture in millibar (mbar)—a very fine measurement unit for soil tension.

It can be used to:
• Spot-check moisture at various depths
• Cross-reference Blumat sensor behavior
• Measure close to a carrot to see what the Blumat sees

*Never submerge the top electronics—the unit is water-resistant, not waterproof.

Occasionally requires a manual reset:
• Remove the electric top from the ceramic base
• Press and hold the power button for 3–4 seconds until the display reads “000”
• If the reset is successful, the meter will display a “0” and be ready for use
• Reassemble and allow time for recalibration (30–60 minutes)
• If the display shows a number instead of zero:
   - Perform a hard reset:
      > Remove the screws from the back of the top unit
      > Open the housing
      > Pull the battery, wait a moment, and reinstall it
   - This clears memory and allows for a proper reset

Once installed, allow 30–60 minutes for it to fully equilibrate with the soil.
   - After this, it can be moved between spots.
   - After moving, wait 2–3 minutes for an accurate reading.

Ideal for pinpointing issues like:
   - Miscalibrated carrots
   - Leaks or poor seals in BlueSoak or dripper connections
   - Zones drying out inconsistently

These are manual-read analog tensiometers, great for deeper, more stable readings.

Commonly used in:
• Raised beds
• Large containers (30+ gallons)

The 12" model is recommended for most applications.

Unlike Blumats, Irrometers are not calibrated to tube length, meaning:
• A longer tensiometer will read artificially higher due to the added weight of water in the tube.
• Always interpret readings in context of sensor depth.

USAGE TIPS:
• Irrometers also take 30–60 minutes to equilibrate after insertion.
• Once stabilized, they can also be moved around and give accurate readings within a few minutes.
• Refilling is simple:
   - Unscrew cap
   - Top off with water
   - Reinsert and allow to settle again
• Especially useful for identifying how much water storage remains in the deeper soil layers (“the battery”)

• The ideal time to install your Blumat system is after transplant.
• Blumat sensors should be placed in pre-moistened soil at the time of transplanting.
• However, newly transplanted plants may not immediately activate the sensor, especially if:
  - The root ball is small relative to the container.
  - The sensor is placed too far from the root ball.
  - The plant is root-bound and not wicking water into surrounding soil.

Recommendations:
• After transplanting, spot-water the root ball to prevent transplant shock:
  - Use 200–500 mL of water, depending on container size.
• Monitor closely for the first few days:
  - The system may not kick on until roots grow into the surrounding medium.
  - You may need to hand-water again if the soil surrounding the root ball remains dry.

You can top-dress amendments without removing your Blumat sensors:
• Broadcast dry amendments over the surface of the soil.
• Gently scratch them in using your hands or a rake.

Optionally, you can remove sensors temporarily:
• Remove sensors and distribution.
• Mix amendments more deeply into the soil.
• Reinstall sensors afterward, following standard moisture calibration.

Xtra Tip:
Water in amendments using a pressurized sprayer or watering wand:
• The goal is to drive the nutrients slightly into the surface and prevent them from sitting dry on top.
• This also helps reduce clumping or runoff.

Drenches can be used with Blumat systems in place, but should be done with reduced water volume.

Key Tips:

Use a smaller total water volume than your system would normally apply in a day:
• This ensures the system will cycle back on and not remain inactive.

Think of a drench as a "liquid broadcast":
• Apply the liquid evenly across the soil surface.
• Use concentrated inputs when possible to reduce volume.

The Blumat system will redistribute the moisture:
• Because the medium is already well-wicked and hydrated, inputs will spread through the soil effectively even without deep watering.
• Afterward, the system will kick back on and help push the input deeper into the root zone.

Feeding Through the System & Keeping It Clean

• Feeding through any irrigation system requires special care and maintenance to avoid buildup and clogging.
• Tank hygiene is critical. If you see biofilm or residue in the reservoir, it likely exists throughout the entire system.
• UV filtration is an affordable and effective way to prevent biofilm formation in reservoirs and lines.

• Reservoirs should be cleaned regularly using:
  - Hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂)
  - Hypochlorous acid
  - Bleach (diluted appropriately)

• Important: When using cleaning products, always open a flush valve at the end of your supply line before pressurizing the system.
  - This allows dislodged debris to flush out rather than become lodged in Blumat sensors or distribution components.
• Only use clean, fully soluble nutrient inputs with no biological or particulate components.
  - Compost teas, microbial inoculants, and inputs with living cultures should not be run through the system.
• All inline screen filters and pre-filters should be:
  - Clearly identified
  - Monitored and cleaned regularly

• Feeding through BluSoak drip tape is not recommended due to its tendency to promote algae growth in the lines, especially at lower pressures or with organic inputs.
• Gravity-fed systems are especially sensitive to clogging, so regular line inspection and flushing is strongly advised.

If a container or bed is staying too wet or the Blumat sensor seems to be constantly running:

Step 1: Check if the sensor is running
• Remove the 3mm line from the distribution end.
• Observe whether water is flowing directly from the sensor.

Step 2: Check for leaks in distribution
• Visually inspect the BluSoak drip tape and fittings.
• Look for obvious wet spots or spreading moisture patterns.
• If a BluSoak fitting is leaking, hand-tighten and then use channel locks to give an extra 1/4 turn.
• If the tape itself is leaking, cut out the damaged section and reconnect with a BluSoak tape coupler.

Step 3: Verify soil moisture
• Use a tensiometer (preferably a Digital Moisture Meter) to check the moisture level near the sensor at the same depth.

Step 4: Shut off and reset the sensor
• If the moisture level is below 50 mbar and the sensor is actively watering:
   - Remove the sensor from the soil.
   - Unscrew the top cap to see if the water flow stops. If it does not stop, the sensor is out of calibration.
   - Reset the sensor using the cap dialing method:
     > Insert a 3/32" Allen key through the protective cap.
     > Turn clockwise to tighten for a drier set point.
     > Turn counterclockwise to loosen for a wetter set point.
     > Make small adjustments — no more than 1/2 arrow (1/8").
     > Each 1/8" change typically adjusts the set point by 15–30 mbar.
     > Allow up to 48 hours to observe changes in soil moisture.

If a container or bed is staying too dry and the sensor is not turning on:

Step 1: Confirm water flow
• Check that the water source (bucket, reservoir, or hose bib) is turned on and functioning.

Step 2: Check for air bubbles
• Remove the sensor from the soil.
• Tilt it side to side while looking through the green plastic top.
• A bubble larger than 1/2 inch may prevent proper operation.

Step 3: Inspect the ceramic bottom
• Look for cracks or visible leaks.
• If cracked, replace the ceramic bottom.
• f intact, ensure the sensor is fully assembled and properly sealed.
• Refill with water and screw it back together tightly.

Step 4: Reset the sensor
• If the sensor is still not functioning, refill and reset using the cap dialing instructions.
• Refer to the Moisture Range Calculator to find your target setting.
• Reinstall the sensor into pre-moistened soil and allow 24–48 hours for stabilization.